Good News for Minnesota's Brook Trout by Larry Gavin

Take Me to Your Leader by Larry Gavin

Take Me to Your Leader
this was written by Larry Gavin and first appeared in Midwest Fly Fishing

Most beginning fly fishers spend huge amounts of time selecting rods, reels and lines, but spend very little time thinking about leaders. That makes sense because rods, reels and lines are the most expensive component of fly fishing equipment. Leaders, however, could well be the most important ingredient to fishing success. Leaders are all about energy and transferring the energy created by the rod, through the line, to the fly and the water. Leaders determine the presentation of the fly to the fish; probably the most important part of the fishing experience if one actually wants to catch fish. However, most people don’t spend nearly enough time thinking about leader options and how they work. The goal here is to transfer energy, turn the fly over, and effectively dissipate energy, letting the fly land lightly on the water.

Before the Leader

Before you actually get to the leader many fly fishers like to tie a section of large diameter leader material directly to the fly line. The leader can then be tied to this section of line and not directly to the fly line itself. That way when the whole leader needs to be changed the fly line isn’t impacted. To connect this section of leader material to the fly line one uses a nail knot. The nail knot is one of the most beautiful things in fly-fishing. Get a nail knot tube, and learn to tie them well. A perfect nail knot is a constant reminder that everything is right with the world.

The section of large diameter material tied via nail knot to the fly line should be from six to eight inches long. I use a line called Amnesia, which, as the name suggests, doesn’t have a memory so it remains kink free. After the nail knot is tied some of the tag end of the fly line will need to be trimmed. Be sure to seal the end of the fly line with a product like zap-a-gap it keeps water from seeping up into the fly line and smoothes the nail knot so it slides through the line guides easier. Without the glue the fly line will eventually soak up water and sink.

Now you’re ready for the leader itself. There are three basic choices for leaders, but first the x’s.

The X’s

Tippet - the small end of the leader - are measured in a system that uses x’s. The x system refers to line diameter and goes from 0x (largest) to 8x (smallest). The diameter corresponds to relative breaking strength of the tippet, but each manufacturer does it differently. You’ll need to buy some spools of tippet material in 5x and 6x for most trout fishing applications, but you must match tippet to the type of fishing you’re doing.

Tapered Knotless Leaders

All leaders are tapered but knotless tapered leaders are the type of leaders that you see in the fly shops. They come in packages of one to three and are mechanically tapered from butt section to tippet: that’s thick to thin and they are one piece. They are usually labeled by the x’s 8x thin and therefore light breaking strength to Ox tarpon sized. The butt section goes on the large diameter material you tied on the fly line in the step above. Use a blood knot for this connection. Blood knots are the second greatest knot in fly-fishing.

Tapered knotless leaders have several advantages. They are simple to use and they offer good energy transfer from the line to the fly. They come in a variety of sizes and lengths. They are pretty consistent in quality. They come with a built in tippet section that you can tie a fly to directly. As you change flies, however, the tippet section becomes shorter and shorter, so sooner or later you take the tippet material from your spool and add some to the leader. If you purchased a 5x leader add 5x tippet etc. You can use a blood knot to add tippet or a surgeons knot. Many people only use these tapered knotless leaders and like them just fine, but as one fishes more, one may want to fine-tune the whole leader approach. Even with these leaders if you are casting a bulky fly you may want shorten the leader a bit, and if you cast a smaller fly you can lengthen it. The pluses to this type of leader are that it is easy, quick, and relatively reliable. Knotless leaders tend to pick up fewer weeds and debris from the waters surface. However, once you tie on more tippet there’s a knot.

Hand-Tied Compound Leaders Hand tied leaders are tied from individual lengths of leader material. Instead of being manufactured from butt to tippet without knots, the steps from butt to tippet are built using knots gradually reducing the thickness of leader material from butt to tippet. Building ones own leaders allows the angler the infinite ability to refine presentations and create, many feel, superior delivery of the fly. I tie all my own leaders, many from formula’s I created myself after tinkering with established formulas. Most leaders are built on a 60-20-20 formula. 60% butt section 20% rapidly stepped down diameter mid- section 20% tippet. One can buy leader kits from most major manufacturers of leaders. They contain many spools of various diameter material and frequently come with sample formulas. Blood knots are used to connect the individual sections of leader material to make the whole leader. Then the leaders are looped, labeled and stored in a leader wallet for use on the stream. A well-tied leader is a beautiful thing, and having several stored is like money in the bank.

Furled Leaders

There’s an important distinction to make here between “furled” leaders and “braided” leaders. True furled leaders, unlike braided leaders, are not hollow inside. A furled leader looks braided but in fact is much more solid with material inside which gives some advantages that will be discussed later.

In many ways furled leaders were the first leaders that were developed when fishers needed a line that was thicker on one end and could be smaller tied to a snelled fly at the other end. These leaders are woven from larger to smaller and tippet is then attached to the end. Furled leaders are interesting as can be. They smoothly transfer energy, last a long time, and are particularly good for heavier flies and presentations that aren’t so delicate. They also provide a bit more shock absorption because they give a bit when fish make a run. When my son was little, and had trouble breaking fish off, I got him a furled leader and it seemed to let him land more fish. Problems? They tend to hold water and splash a bit, but they also hold flotant well and float nice and high so that’s a plus.

Poly Leaders

One of the new innovations over the past couple years has been the development of poly leaders. They come in weights to match various line weights, are five to eight feet in length, and turn over any length of tippet. They come in floating and sinking styles the sinking styles have different sink rates. They are also available in bass, pike, and saltwater sizes. People that use them love them. They say that tippet lengths up to twelve feet can be turned over by this leader. They are easily straightened, flexible in the cold, and cast well in the wind. They may be the leader of the future.

With Any Leader

One should also note that there are new leader materials available; the most notable being fluorocarbon. It has interesting qualities that make it a good choice in some situations. I use it when carp fishing because it is nearly invisible in the water and allows for higher breaking strength tippets because of that invisibility. It is also more abrasion resistant because it is harder. However, I’ve had problems with brittleness in some brands and the stuff sinks like a rock.

With any leader, once it’s tied to the fly line there are some basic things one must do to maintain its usefulness. First of all, check any knots before fishing. Make sure they are tight and “set”. Second, stretch the leader a bit, run it through your fingers, or use a rubber leader straightener to get the kinks out. Check the tippet for length and make sure it isn’t scratched or nicked. It is always better to tie on new tippet and make sure things are right before fishing.

Good News for Minnesota’s Brook Trout
this was written by Larry Gavin and first appeared in Midwest Fly Fishing

For years, among trout fisher’s that love to pursue brook trout, there were stories about lost native strains of fish; fish untainted by the introduction of eastern brook trout in the 1870’s. My little part of the story is one of my neighboring streams in Rice County, Minnesota.

Each summer, a couple of times at least, I fish the stream for brook trout. I always do it the same way a six foot three weight bamboo rod, hand-tied leader, and a royal wolf size fourteen. From the road, the stream looks impossibly small to fish, but downstream in its boggy reaches, there are a couple pools that one can cast too. On a calm day one can fish the runs, especially if you feel lucky because with weed growth the stream channel shrinks to six or seven inches, but the fish in these runs hit a fly with abandon.

Some trips I catch three of four brookies most a solid six to eight inches. Some trips I catch none. When I catch none I worry. The whole stream is maybe a mile long and I can’t help but wondering: could they be gone? It wouldn’t take much. My son, who has learned to avoid accompanying me on these odd little missions always asks me about the fish when we I get home. “Did you catch any?” He’ll say, and if I say “no” he gets a funny look on his face. It won’t be long, a week, maybe two, and he’ll say “Maybe you should go back, if I go with you,” he’ll say, “we’ll double our chances of catching one.” I like to think he worries about the fish, too.

Minnesota’s relationship with brook trout is much like other states in the Midwest. The brook trout population in Minnesota, especially in the southeast, was devastated by clear cutting the hillsides and the ensuing erosion that muddies streams, raises water temps and makes Brook trout die. Couple that with general over fishing, and the Minnesota fish commissioner were already talking about heavily stocking streams in 1878 and 1879. They were looking for any hatchery fish they could buy. Some were provided by local hatcheries like the Watson hatchery in Winona. Almost all the strains of brook trout were eastern in some way. Detailed records were kept of the stocking locations by city. These brook trout had the characteristics that the fish commissioners and public wanted in fish. They provided food, so they grew quickly and anglers could catch them for a quick meal. There were also problems with this strain of brook trout. They were fast growing but they didn’t live long so as fisherman’s tastes changed from fishing for food to fishing for sport, these trout held less appeal. They died before they reached trophy size.

The general consensus was that every watershed and every fish in Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Iowa was contaminated with the stocked brook trout. Trout experts, or so called experts, proclaimed on message boards and at TU meetings that there were no native brook trout left. The real experts were a bit quieter. The brook trout became a kind of Holy Grail of fish. Then enter various trout organizations. They began to focus on restoring indigenous fish to various watersheds and getting rid of nonnative species. There is an obvious flaw to this view since, in the Midwest; only one species of trout is native. So these organizations created the idea of wild trout. Those that were born and reproduce in the stream they were originally stocked, and so the wild trout movement became the trout group’s idea of trout management in much of the Midwest. Stream quality improved dramatically with the movement toward wild trout management and the trout organizations were, in many cases, directly responsible.

Fisheries people hadn’t lost sight of the brook trout, however, especially in Minnesota. Much of the DNR focus in the gopher state is aimed at creating a pre-settlement environment. An approach that denies the ultimate invasive species: us. Be that as it may, fisheries rumors of native brook trout started to emerge. I remember as a youngster strains of native trout were rumored in Iowa. Taking a page from the trend in forest and agriculture management they were called heritage strains. I remember trekking across Iowa one summer catching brook trout from very small (frequently nearly invisible) streams and wondering if they were as close to the real thing as I could get. In those days, the late 1970’s, no one was talking. Oddly enough on one of these trips I had lunch next to a guy that worked for a seed corn company that had just returned from South America gathering corn varieties he called heritage strains.

In Minnesota in 2002 and 2003 there were a set of meetings to establish a long range plan for trout management. Brook trout had a prominent role in that plan. In fact there was a commitment to study and reintroduce brook trout to all the streams that could support their growth and development. In Minnesota almost 26 percent of the total designated miles support brook trout.

Several initiatives came forward as a result of that report. A genetic study of trout from various watersheds was conducted; strains of fish were transported and preserved, including those in my tiny Rice county stream.

by Larry Gavin There were strains of brook trout in the upper reaches of watersheds that may have survived the introduction of early years. Differences in watershed, and the aquifers that feed them, are reflected in the genetic mapping of these brook trout that appear to have more of a relationship to other clusters in the Midwest than originally expected. Minnesota officials are calling one of these strains Minnesota Wild and using them as the basis for current stocking efforts since 1999. It is impossible to determine just how far back this strain goes because there are no genetic examples of the original to which they can be compared. But these fish are as close as we can get to the original wild trout.

DNR fisheries experts in Minnesota will be presenting information on the brook trout report over the next few months: good news for those of us that love brook trout.

A Few Tips on Winter Trout
this was written by Dave Anderson of On The Fly Guiding

Here are a few things to keep in mind as you head out this winter season and hit some area streams for the winter season.

Gear: Most any type of fly rod will suffice, but I prefer a longer rod (8.5-9 feet in length) with anywhere between 2-5 weight line. The longer rod allows for easier mending. I also like a softer action rod this time of year. You won’t be “ripping lips” in the winter season; it’s a much more subtle and often dainty take on the trout’s behalf, so softer action for a simple raise of the rod to get a set works best for me.

Floating line (dull colors) is pretty standard unless you’re doing some deep-water nymphing or streamers. 9-12 foot leaders with tippet as fine as 6x is pretty standard as well. Fluorocarbon is a nice addition but not a necessity. It’s abrasion resistant and doesn’t absorb water, so it has some benefits; however, cost is a factor for many anglers.

Hip boots and neoprenes (which are not practical in general for southeast Minnesota) are relevant for winter use. Gloves are in the eye of the beholder. Fingerless, glommits, and other varieties exist, but the bottom line is to keep your hands dry and warm.

Flies: This is a pretty simple situation. Most anglers stick with the tried and true scud in sizes #12-18 in orange, amber, pink, gray, olive, and tan. The pink squirrel (and derivatives of this pattern) are also popular. Midges (diptera meaning “two winged”) are very common throughout the winter months. Standard brassies in copper, red, or green will work, as well as basic midge larvae tie in black, brown, gray, and olive (pack a few tans as well). Midge pupae and emergers are a good bet. Zebra midge patterns or the Simpleton Midge (made common by Brian Stewart) are great emerger patterns. Coper Johns, as well as pheasant tails in smaller sizes are a good call. Caddis nymphs like the Peeking caddis is a good choice along with popular patterns like Prince Nymphs and Hare’s Ears.

BE SURE THAT YOU HAVE ENOUGH LEAD ON YOUR SET UP TO GET YOUR FLY DOWN TO WHERE THE TROUT ARE!!

Pay attention to risers and/or the appearance of midges on the banks. You’ll often see them dotting the snow on warmer days. For dries, the Griffifth’s Gnat is popular, as well as local favorites like the Simpleton Midge, Stuck-in-the-Shuck Midge, and Midge Emerger dries (like Tom Dornack’s pattern). Both patterns float yet also have a shuck on the tail end of the pattern.

Surroundings: Remember that trout fishing in January is a whole different ballgame than last summer. You have little in the way of streamside cover and often snow is present. Dull colors are a must. Stay low and be deliberate. Get close to actively feeding fish, but take your time getting there. Minimize your wading at all costs as to stay off redds and prevent unnecessarily spooking trout (thus hippers is a good choice). Be conscious of temperatures, both water and air temperatures. Winter fishing has a little bit of “banker’s hours,” so maximize your chances by being on the water when the temperature is highest. Don’t be afraid to monitor water temperatures with a thermometer now and again.

Winter trout fishing can often be frustrating and rewarding, all in the same outing. Be following a few of the suggested tips, you can easily increase your chances of success this winter.

Dave Anderson
On The Fly Guide Service

Would you like to submit an article?

Economic Impacts of Coldwater Angling by the DNR. It's a heavy read, but well worth your time.

Invading Non-Native Species?
I always thought worms were good for the earth but they are an unwelcome invader in Minnesota. Read the Minnesota DNR's article here.

TU History
From the beginning, TU was guided by the principle that if we “take care of the fish, then the fishing will take care of itself.”

Burned By Wild Parsnip
Want to learn more about Wild Parsnip. Read this article from the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources.